The Great Organic Agave Nectar Controversy: To Use or Not to Use. That is the question.

Photo Credit: Teatime by House of Sims

Do you have any idea how long it took me to find an alternative to sugar that tasted good and was “non-toxic?” For the last six years, I have (proudly) recommended organic agave nectar to everyone I know.  I was flabbergasted when I recently read this headline from a highly trusted natural health guru, Dr. Mercola.

Shocking! This ‘Tequila’ Sweetener is Far Worse than High Fructose Corn Syrup.

http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2010/03/30/beware-of-the-agave-nectar-health-food.aspx

The article isn’t pretty, and the allegations are troublesome for major organic agave  nectar brands.  It was troublesome for me, too.   How dare he rain on my ‘sweet parade’ knocking my beloved agave nectar off its pedestal?  I had to dig deeper.

What I uncovered was a strong camp of organic agave nectar supporters and an even stronger camp of naysayers.  I discovered the complexities of sugars and how they are processed and metabolized by our bodies.  I encountered a highly unregulated industry rampant with so-called Tequila mafias, false and misleading product labeling, and shady products ‘cut’ with alternative ingredients like high fructose corn syrup.  It was a sticky situation—no pun intended.  

What I submit to you is a hypothecate opinion on the subject.   I have included a generous supply of links and resources.  I encourage you to conduct your own research and take full responsibility for your family’s health.   And please share the information.  The world doesn’t need more regulation, we need more education. 

Photo Credit: Agave by Will Scullin

For those of you who haven’t yet heard of organic agave nectar, it is golden-colored syrup that resembles honey, but tastes sweeter.   It is made from several varieties of the agave succulent which primarily grows in the central regions of Mexico.  It has been widely accepted in natural health circles since the late 1990’s and is embraced by a high percentage of ‘raw foodies’, vegetarians and vegans.   It is also accepted by many mainstream health experts like Dr. Oz, (Oprah’s favorite doctor) and beloved Dr. Weil as a healthy sugar substitute. 

Agave nectar has been heavily promoted as a raw, organic, whole food and has been marketed as a diabetic friendly alternative to other forms of sugar.  Agave manufacturers claim that it has a low-glycemic ranking which makes it safe for diabetics who must choose foods 55 or less on the glycemic index.   Allegedly, it will not cause wild swings in your blood sugar.  What’s not to love?

According to the growing camp of naysayers, EVERYTHING!  The article posted on March 30 2010 by Dr. Mercola seems to be based on information from Russ Bianchi (http://russbianchi.com/wordpress/?s=agave).  The crux of the article is that agave is extremely high in fructose, the same culprit found in high fructose corn syrup (HFCS), which causes obesity because of the way it is processed and metabolized by our bodies.   According to the article…

“Most agave syrup has a higher fructose content than any commercial sweetener — ranging from 70 to 97 percent, depending on the brand, which is FAR HIGHER than high fructose corn syrup (HFCS), which averages 55 percent.

This makes agave actually WORSE than HFCS.”

The article lists a number of additional complaints against organic agave nectar including:

• Agave, being primarily fructose, will turn to fat and make you fat because our liver metabolize fructose in the same way it metabolizes alcohol and causes similar problems.
• It is highly processed using a method similar to which cornstarch is converted into HFCS1.
• Due to over processing, blending, and heating to temperatures exceeding 118 degrees, it is not a whole food, raw food or a live food.
• Most producers have poor quality control and ‘cut’ their product with HFCS before they leave Mexico.
• It is filled with dangerous compounds like pesticides, Saponins (which have been linked to miscarriage) and Hydroxymethylfurfural, a contaminant that can form from the heating of HFCS.
• Processing methods are chemically intensive involving caustic acids, clarifiers, and filtration chemicals.

Photo Credit: Jimador by Celso Flores

Dr. Mercola concedes that there are a few companies in the industry producing a high quality product but he neglects to mention those producers by name or brand.  Per Dr. Mercola, the guidelines for producing high qualityagave nectar are (as quoted directly from the source article):

• Work with the indigenous people
• Use organic agave as the raw material, free of pesticides
• Process at low temperatures to preserve all the natural enzymes
• Produce a final agave product that is closer to 50% fructose instead of over 90%
• Fructose is bonded or conjugated to other sugars and not floating around as “free” fructose, like HFCS, which is far more damaging.

The industry, centered primarily in Mexico, is somewhat a mystery.   There are three major players that I have found to date:

1. IIdea:    (http://www.fuzing.com/vci/000818433230/IIDEA) which may have been responsible for many of the brands containing 90% fructose.  According to some sources, the negative publicity hurt their market share significantly.
2. Nekutli:  The supplier for Madhava (http://www.greenpeople.org/webpage.cfm?memid=39647&pmtlevel=0&linkpage=http://alior%2Ecom%2F)
3. Global Goods:  The supplier (or parent company) of Volcanic Nectar

Almost every brand of agave I have encountered including www.madhava.com, www.wholesomesweeteners.com, and the brand I currently use www.volcanicnectar.com, ‘claims’ to be certified organic, safe for diabetics, raw and even kosher.  Two of the three have provided official responses to the recent bad press.  However, I could not find a statement about the controversy from Wholesome Sweeteners. 

From Brian Oaks, President Global Goods, Inc.   http://www.globalgoods.com/volcanicnectaragave.html

From Craig Gerbore, CEO of Madhava  http://www.agavemythbuster.com/p/comments-on-dr-mercolas-article.html

When you read their rebuttals, it is difficult to accept all the claims in the article as pure fact.  The generalized, blanket statements are misleading in this regard.  Journalistic oversights aside, here are my thoughts on the issue. 

Photo Credit: Berries and Cheezecake in Puff by Norwhichnuts

Why is Agave such a big deal?

• Because “sweetness” is a big deal.  We love our sweet treats but sugars sabotage our quest for good health.  Finding “healthy” sweeteners is almost as high on the priority list as finding the fountain of youth.  Agave has recently risen to stardom.
• Diabetics everywhere interpret the ‘seal of approval’ Glycemic Research Institute (GRI) dominantly displayed on the label and trust agave nectar to be a safe sweetener.   Yet, according to Dr. Susan Mitchell, Fellow of the American Dietetic Association, “Currently, we don’t have clinical studies as to agave’s safety in diabetes.”   There seems to be a big disconnect between labeling and fact.
• Millions of average consumers looking for healthy alternatives have adopted agave based on its wholesome marketing as ‘raw, organic, and kosher’.  At the bare minimum, agave manufacturers should be required to add the actual fructose content to the labels and a warning about the dangers of miscarriage.
• Three to five years ago, agave nectar was difficult to find, even in health food stores.  Due to extensive marketing, the tables have turned.   In 2010, agave is listed as one of the top 10 flavors by McCormick Foods and many of the large processed food manufacturers are beginning to introduce agave into their ‘healthy alternative’  brands.
• Consumers will pay a premium for the syrup (a 24 ounce bottle costs about $10.00).   Products containing the syrup as a sugar substitute command a premium price, just like organic products.  Consumers’  health and pocketbooks are at risk.
• Increased demand will undoubtedly affect sustainability of agave as a crop and the quality of the product produced as manufacturers potentially succumb to the pressure to meet demand.
• Its benefits are extolled by many natural health gurus and notorious doctors, yet serious questions about the effects of agave are emerging.  If the claims made by the naysayers are true, then this is just the next major harmful food ingredient to be fraudulently marketed as healthy and wholesome.

To Use or Not to Use:  My Conclusions

First and foremost, the article served as yet another reminder that sugar consumption (in any form; sucrose, glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, dextrose, or chemical substitute) is dangerous and should be minimized as much as possible.   I have renewed my commitment to reduce the sugar intake in my own family and to find healthy substitutes.   There are many great articles already circulating on the effects of sugar on almost every area of our health.  If interested, you can begin with articles listed at the end of this post.

Let’s face it.  We Americans love our sugar and it shows on our hips, bellies and buttocks.  Sugar makes everything taste better so if you are going to have ‘the sweet life’, the question is what form of sweetener is the least destructive, most economical and most readily available?  Certain sweeteners work well for certain uses and fail miserably for others.  It’s unreasonable to think we can find a ‘one size fits all’ solution.   

All things considered, agave seems like a logical choice.  It ended up on my table through process of elimination:

• The chemical sweeteners (Splenda, Equal, Sweet-n-Low) are all potentially cancer inducing, even though, for some, the zero calorie content trumps the dangers of toxic chemicals.  I would be a hypocrite if I claimed that I never reach for a little pink, yellow or blue packet. 
• Stevia is not a sugar.  It is an herb with a sweet taste.  While considered ‘safe’, has a strong aftertaste which my family unequivocally dislikes.  Natural food experts claim that even Stevia, in all its forms including new brands like PureVia and TrueVia are highly processed.   I don’t have time to grow and boil Stevia leaves, as the purists suggest, so it is not an option in my life.  It might work for you.
• The dangers of high fructose corn syrup are extensive.  The inherent problem with agave is that it is fructose, which in its natural form (i.e. raw fruit) is okay in moderation.  Some experts warn that fructose consumption should not exceed 5% of your total daily calories.  With the prevalence of HFCS in process foods, most Americans are closer to 25 to 30% of calories from fructose based products.   
• Cane sugars (white and brown) are sucrose and glucose combined in a 50/50 ratio.  Evaporated cane juice falls into this same category.  If you pay attention to food labeling, you may have noticed many food manufacturers replacing HFCS with evaporated cane juice.  Don’t fall victim to this scam.  While it might be slightly better than HFCS, it is still processed sugar.  Keep consumption low and make sure it is organic cane sugar.

For me, the remaining alternatives are:

• Xylotol:   I buy Xylosweet brand.  It’s difficult to find in grocery stores, but you can now purchase it on Amazon.  (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dhpc&field-keywords=Xylosweet&x=6&y=16).  Because it doesn’t dissolve particularly well and it doesn’t activate yeast, and it can’t be used in baked goods, although it does have benefits for dental health.  It comes in a variety of forms including cute little single serving packets.  When I am in one of my “really organized phases”, I keep it in my purse to eliminate the temptation to reach for the Sweet-n-Low, Equal or Splenda while dining out. 
• Organic Honey:  What could invoke more quaint images than little busy bees flitting around from flower to flower in order to produce life’s golden nectar?   Honey is high fructose (again not great), high on the glycemic index, and extremely high in calories.  It tastes great, but I can feel my waistline expanding partake of its pleasures. When I do buy honey, I try to find locally grown and organic brands.  When I reall get a craving, I splurge on Noniland Black Gold honey and treat myself to a cuppa’ tea.  Divine! (http://www.sunfood.com/buy/1/103/NoniLand-Black-Gold-Honey-11-oz-raw-wildcrafted-Ormus-rich-pesticide-free.aspx)  Moderation.  Moderation. Moderation.
• Pure organic Maple syrup:  It falls in the category of sucrose.  Good old fashioned maple syrup seems to be a healthier choice than agave according to David Wolfe although Dr. Mercola does not like it because of potential processing issues involving lead and heating.  Stay tuned for a future post on this topic.  A girl needs an occasional pancake, so it remains on my list.
• Dextrose:  Dr. Mercola recommends dextrose (pure glucose) which I intend to research.   I will attempt to understand why corn sugar (dextrose) is safe when HCFS is not.  The answer must lie in the processing or in the way our bodies assimilate dextrose.  Also, I am not clear on the availability of organic dextrose or non GMO dextrose since it is corn based.  (Another future post).

None of these choices are perfect.  Agave theoretically has a lot of advantages. 

It is sweeter than table sugar and honey and therefore, it stands to reason that one will consume less.  It takes my family two months to consume a 24 ounce bottle of agave.  (That’s .2 ounces per person per day).  For that reason alone, I like agave and am likely to continue to use it in (even more) moderation.     As long as I am using a brand that is 50% or less in fructose content, it is no worse than table sugar or HFCS.  To achieve the same level of sweetness, we would consume more HFCS or table sugar per person.

Photo Credit: Peanut Butter Cookies by Norwhichnuts

It can be used for baking and cooking.

I find that I can get by with 1/4 to 1/3 the amount of sugar by substituting agave.  So if a recipe calls for 1 cup of sugar, I start with ¼ cup and add more if needed. 

I do believe there are brands of agave that are produced with integrity and with quality in mind.  My favorite is Volcanic Nectar and its parent company claims that it is organic, unblended, 50% or less fructose, and produced at temperatures less than 118 degrees.  In researching this article, I found a brand recommended by David Wolfe that seems much better.   The brand is called Ojio and they make powder and liquid forms.  You can check it out at http://www.ultimatesuperfoods.com/products.aspx?comcode=NC&selection=0

Another plus lies in the fact that select brands of Agave meet the industry standards for low glycemic sweeteners meaning they are below 55 on the glycemic index.   Somehow, I still get peace of mind from the fact that it is less likely to induce the highs and lows from table sugar or HFCS.  There must be some REAL health benefit of agave being low on the scale.

I have remaining unanswered questions and concerns:

• The most pressing has to do with how various sugars are processed by our bodies.  Taxing the liver on a daily basis (as suggested in the article) with toxins that cannot be properly broken down is a problem.   That fact alone causes me concern about the long term effects of agave on the liver.  If this is true, then certain claims about the health dangers of agave may have merit.  
• The side effects of Saponins on the uterus of pregnant women are troubling as well.  I find it alarming that there are no warnings about this on the labels or company websites.
• Here is another question… if a certain brand is 50% fructose, what is the other 50%?
• Lastly, I am still trying to understand why agave affects the glycemic index differently than glucose and sucrose based sugars and if it really matters as much as we think it does. 

For me, the debate is far from over.  Each path leads to more questions and more confusion.   In the meantime, I live in the real world with two kids and a husband who love their sweet treats.  It is unreasonable to think that “sugar free” is sustainable for my family.  However, gaining a better understanding of sugars and educating my family about their effects is high on my list of priorities. 

 I encourage you to do your own research and draw your own conclusions based on your personal priorities.  I hope some of the information in this article has jump started your investigation.  Readers who have strong insight on this issue are encouraged to share their finding on this site.

So for now, agave will remain (very cautiously and in very small quantities) on my short list of ‘acceptable sweeteners’.  The answer to my question; to use or not to use is “officially” unresolved.  Please stay tuned.  

If all this sweet talk has piqued your interest, here are a few additional links to interesting information that will further your research:

General information on agave:

http://www.living-foods.com/articles/agave.html

http://www.savvyvegetarian.com/blog/health/truth-about-agave-nectar-agave-syrup

http://www.savvyvegetarian.com/blog/health/truth-about-agave-nectar-agave-syrup

The Agave Advocates:  (Notice the manufacturers or folks with a vested interest in agave products fall into this category also).

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=566528779674

http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/QAA400431/Is-Agave-Nectar-Any-Good.html

http://coconutbliss.blogspot.com/2010/03/lets-talk-about-agave.html

http://alteredplates.blogspot.com/2008/12/madhavas-craig-gerbore-responds-to.html

http://www.sheknows.com/articles/804491/the-health-benefits-of-agave-nectar

http://www.sweetcactusfarms.com/

The Naysayers:

http://www.westonaprice.org/Agave-Nectar-Worse-Than-We-Thought.html

http://www.sugarshockblog.com/2010/03/agave-is-worse-for-you-than-high-fructose-corn-syrup-hfcs-please-stay-away-from-the-stuff.html

http://optimumnutrition.wordpress.com/2009/10/05/the-dirty-secret-about-agave/

http://food-facts.suite101.com/article.cfm/agave_syrup_may_not_be_helpful_for_diabetics#ixzz0pQpqVRTy

The Dangers of Sugar:

http://www.healingdaily.com/detoxification-diet/sugar.htm

http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2010/04/20/sugar-dangers.aspx

P.S.  I have no affiliation with any of the products or experts recommended or mentioned in this article.

Photo Credit: Flavored Agave Nectar by Moria

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